How to make the best and most accurate cuts in all types of wood projects
Example of a saw blade with sliding mass finishing bag. (Courtesy of Flicker, Mark Hunter)
Mitre saws make the carpenter’s work much easier, but that doesn’t mean they are easy to use. Although they can significantly reduce working time and cut more accurately than other types of saws, good technique and practice are also needed to achieve a nice result without the negative effects of tearing or splitting.
Here are some simple steps you can take to make your mitropil saw work better for you:
- Relax your fence
It is sometimes difficult to saw curved parts with a straight circular saw. To make sure you get the cleanest cut possible, you can push your extended fence again. This makes it easy to hold the casting firmly against the usual saw guide for a precise cut.
- Choose a sharp knife
Not all saw blades are designed for all tasks, but some can be used for more tasks than others. The conventional saw blades supplied with the mitre saw are suitable for 2×4 cuts, but not for thinner pieces and smoother cuts. Choosing a multi-tooth saw blade makes it easy to achieve a smooth cut on all wood surfaces, even on plywood or hardwood, without having to change saw blades so often.
You should also be careful with a small negative rake on the blades. This means that the teeth of the saw blade tilt backwards and not forwards. A negative rake reduces the risk of tearing and makes the overall cut cleaner.
Example of a saw blade with a large number of teeth. (Thanks to FreeImages.com)
- Use a fuse, if necessary
If you cut a fine broth, it is better to make a double back to cut the broth better. Attach the box to the back stop of your saw and saw through to support the workpiece when sawing. This prevents flashbacks of the cuts and makes it easier to level the cuts on a small piece of wood.
- Transport compressor
If you are taking your saw somewhere, make sure that you turn the turntable fully to the left or right. This allows the handle to be placed much closer to the centre of the weight. This type of transport enables the saw to be better balanced and the weight to be distributed evenly.
- Block making with angular chamfer
If you are in the middle of a project, chances are that your saw is covered with dust and other dirt from the building. It is therefore almost impossible to read the scale exactly with the chamfer to determine the angle at which your saw is turned. Facilitates this work by making a series of measuring blocks with conical angles.
The production of moulds is simple and only takes a few minutes. Start with the sheet at 90 degrees and set it to the first angle for which you want to make the block. Lay the remaining block of wood flat against the fence and saw the entire path at a chosen angle. To use this device as a tilt angle in the future, align it with the edge of the blade to adjust the tilt. Always mark each block with a tilt angle to avoid confusion!
- Throat plate adjustment
If your saw is similar to most other mitre saws, the throat plate is designed to sit directly under the saw table. This can have a negative effect on your budget cuts and widen the gap. It is therefore preferable to adjust the throat plate and lay it flat on the table. You can do this by removing it and supporting it with thin material underneath.
- Circumference of fastening clip
Even though your pliers are not the best, they are much better than trying to make a precise cut without pliers. Normal clamps are not as compatible with the saw, so you don’t have many other options. Using the integrated support will significantly improve your cuts and give you much more precision and accuracy.
- Cut the cradle for your soul by
Cutting bearing plugs can be annoying because they rotate a lot when you try to cut them. This can ruin the cut and make the end result less than perfect. To prevent this, create a V-shaped cradle that holds the grip during cutting.
Make a cradle by cutting it out of a block at an angle of 45 degrees. First make a partial cut on both sides to get something that looks almost like a V-cut, but still has a central part on the inside. After making both cuts, you should be able to remove the center to prevent it from flying off on you while cutting. Then finish the V-cut and your crib is ready.
Examples of wooden dowels. The holder forms a V-shape that engages the cap and facilitates cutting without undesirable slipping or sliding. (Thanks to Wikipedia)
- Be patient with your knife
One of the simplest and most obvious ways to prevent flying segments from moving in space is to stop the saw completely before it is lifted. It only takes a few seconds and can save you a small mess or injury in the future.
- Lifting your long projects
When you are trying to make a saw cut in a tree that is longer than your saw blade, you can support the tree on another piece of scrap to extend the cut. Depending on your saw, you can reach at least another centimetre or more by simply lifting the work onto another object before sawing it. When practicing this method, use a clamp to hold the workpiece in place and prevent it from moving over the edges of the blade.
- Fence for more precise cuts
The use of a lower stopper can help you get better cuts, especially if you need to cut at right angles. Make a lower fence by choosing a board of the same length as your normal saw fence. Try to find hardwood as dense as maple. Saw a 1/8 inch rabbit out of half the sawdust collection board. Screw the board onto the fence and saw the groove in the middle. Line up the marked work with a pencil and make your cuts.
- Sequential cut with stop
Cutting boards of exactly the same size can be complex, but the use of a stop block makes the process very simple. To make this block, simply cut a groove in the top to fit the F-type terminal block you have. It must be very thick. Saw a small angle to prevent sawdust from accumulating on your work. To use a blocking block, set it at a distance that allows the boards to be cut to the desired length. This way you can always get the right length if you put the boards on the bumper each time.
- Centre lines, not at the sides
If you mark your work with a pencil, do not mark the margins. Think how the saw will cut the board. It starts in the middle and cuts through the edges later. If you want to make the most accurate cuts, mark the middle of the panels to help level the saw. Make sure there is an X mark on the blank side of the board to know how to align the board correctly.
Example of marking with the central pin. (Thanks to Wikipedia)
You can ensure that your saw is properly aligned using a simple plastic drawing bracket for regular inspection. By dividing the saw into squares, we ensure that we always get the best cuts. Tip: Saw off one side of the drawing angle so that the teeth of the saw blade do not interfere with your alignment control.
If you follow these 14 tips, you can make the most of it and become a master saw! It’s easy, but the results you get may surprise you.
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